Cambridge University Expedition to Rakaposhi -1954

1954 Cambridge University team, led by Alfred Tissières, attempts the peak via the south-west spur but only reached 6,340 m (20,800 ft). Also, an Austro-German expedition led by Mathias Rebitsch attempted the same route.

Account of a 1954 expedition to climb Mt. Rakaposhi in Northern Pakistan. Includes descriptions of the region, its people, their customs, and the climb up Rakaposhi. Narrated by Major-General Mian Hayaud Din. Climbers: George Band, Roger Chorley, David Fisher, George Faser, Dr. Alfred Tissiers, Ted Wrangham of the Cambridge Mountaineering Club.

Rakaposhi (Räkapoşi) (Urdu: راکاپوشی), is a mountain in the Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. It is situated in the middle of Nagar Valley Nagar District and Danyore and Bagrote valley approximately 100 km north of the capital city Gilgit of the Gilgit–Baltistan province of Pakistan. Rakaposhi means "Snow Covered" in the local language. Rakaposhi is also known as Dumani ("Mother of Mist"). It is ranked 27th highest in the world and 12th highest in Pakistan, but it is more popular for its beauty than its rank might suggest. Rakaposhi has an uninterrupted vertical rise of approximately 6000 m (19,685 feet),  making it the tallest mountain on land when measured from the base to peak.

Rakaposhi was first climbed in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey, members of a British-Pakistani expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route. Both of them suffered minor frostbite during the ascent. Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night.

Park

The people of Nagar have dedicated the Rakaposhi range mountain area as a community park. The Minister for Northern Areas inaugurated the park. The Rakaposhi mountain range is the home of endangered species such asMarco Polo sheep, snow leopard, brown bear, wolves and many other species.

Notable features

Rakaposhi is notable for its exceptional rise over local terrain. On the north, it rises 5,800 metres (19,029 ft) in only an 11.5 km (7.1 mi) horizontal distance from the Hunza River. There are magnificent views of Rakaposhi from the Karakoram Highway on the route through Hunza. A tourist spot in the town of Ghulmat (located in the Nagar Valley) called "Zero Point of Rakaposhi" is the closest convenient view point of the mountain.

Time line

• 1892 Martin Conway explores the south side of Rakaposhi.


• 1938 M. Vyvyan and R. Campbell Secord make the first reconnaissance and climb a north-western forepeak (about 5,800 m (19,000 ft)) via the northwest ridge.


• 1947 Secord returns with H. W. Tilman and two Swiss climbers, Hans Gyr and Robert Kappeler; they ascend via the Gunti glacier to 5,800 m (19,000 ft) on the south-west spur.


• 1954 Cambridge University team, led by Alfred Tissières, attempts the peak via the south-west spur but only reached 6,340 m (20,800 ft). Also, an Austro-German expedition led by Mathias Rebitsch attempted the same route.


• 1956 A British-American expedition, led by Mike Banks, reaches 7,163 m (23,500 ft) on the Southwest Ridge, above the Gunti glacier.


• 1958 The first ascent, noted above.


• 1964 An Irish expedition attempts the long and difficult Northwest Ridge.


• 1971 Karl Herrligkofer leads an attempt on the elegant but difficult North Spur (or North Ridge).


• 1973 Herrligkofer returns to the North Spur but is again unsuccessful due to time and weather problems.


• 1979 A Polish-Pakistani expedition ascends the Northwest Ridge from the Biro Glacier.


• 1979 A Japanese expedition from Waseda University, led by Eiho Ohtani, succeeds in climbing the North Spur. Summit party: Ohtani and Matsushi Yamashita. This ascent was expedition-style, done over a period of six weeks, with 5000 m of fixed rope.


• 1984 A Canadian team achieves a semi-alpine-style ascent of the North Spur, using much less fixed rope than the Japanese team had. Summit party: Barry Blanchard, David Cheesmond, Kevin Doyle.


• 1985-1987 Various unsuccessful attempts on the long East Ridge.


• 1986 A Dutch team climbs a variation of the Northwest Ridge route.


• 1995 An ascent via the Northwest Ridge.


• 1997 An ascent via the Southwest Spur/Ridge (possibly the original route).


• 2000 An attempt from the East side (Bagrot Glacier).

Climbing routes

The routes with successful summits so far have been (see the timeline as well):

• Southwest Spur/Ridge (first ascent route). Long, but not exceedingly technical. Some tricky gendarmes (rock pinnacles). Has been repeated.


• Northwest Ridge. Long, and more technically difficult than the Southwest Spur/Ridge. Has been repeated.


• North Spur (a.k.a. North Ridge). Shorter than the above two routes, but much more technically difficult. Has been repeated, including a semi-alpine style(capsule style) ascent.

Attempts have also been made from the east side (Bagrot Glacier), the East Ridge, and the North Face.